Lisbon’s only cathedral and oldest church was built in the 12th century on the foundations of a mosque, and was first designed following a Romanesque architectural pattern and finished with a Gothic chapel. The first bishop to head the cathedral was an English crusader called Gilbert of Hastings, who was part of an army in the Second Crusade (which included the Reconquest of Lisbon in 1147), led by King Afonso Henriques. Since work began on the building the layout of the immense church has changed considerably, not least as a result of damage from several earthquakes. Although the main church was left standing after the massive 1755 earthquake, the Gothic main chapel and royal pantheon were destroyed.
Queen Leonor founded the Misericórdia of Lisbon in one of the chapels of the cloister of the cathedral in 1448. The Misericórdia was and remains to this day a Catholic charitable institution that later spread to other cities and had an influential role in Portugal and its colonies over the centuries. Recently the Cathedral’s central courtyard was excavated and evidence of Roman, Arab and medieval archaeological periods were found. Each year, in June, the cathedral becomes the centre of attention during the festival of Santo Antonio, when millions of sardines are consumed and an exuberant party takes over the whole neighbourhood (and many others) with small charcoal grills set up along the streets and in front of restaurants. Just a short walk south east of Baixa’s gridiron pattern.
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